As proud new owners of the Wheatsheaf name, and to ensure a strong forward plan to keep the UK sizing system where it belongs, HS Walsh have had to make some tough choices with regards to
manufacture and sizing methods.
This has resulted in a much-improved manufacturing process achieving more superb quality British made tools, and just as important, Guaranteed Ongoing
Accuracy!
The Wheatsheaf Ring Sizing System:
- Origin and History: The Wheatsheaf ring sizing system was developed in Birmingham, UK, by Joseph Pepper in 1920. Its primary aim was to create and maintain an accurate and
consistent scale of measurement for the jewellery making trade.
- Dominance in the UK: The Wheatsheaf system quickly became the standard for ring sizing across the UK. Its accuracy helped eliminate wasted time and materials in ring
production.
- The Scale: The system uses letters from A to Z, with additional half sizes (e.g., A, A½, B, B½, ... Z, Z½) and larger sizes indicated as Z+ followed by a number (e.g., Z+1, Z+2,
up to Z+6).
- Ring Sticks: Wheatsheaf ring sticks are tapered mandrels, mainly made in stainless teel and aluminium, clearly marked with the Wheatsheaf name and size increments. Jewellers use
these to measure the inside diameter of existing rings. To size a ring on a Wheatsheaf stick accurately, the ring should generally be pushed down the stick until its leading edge aligns with the
correct size marking. For wider bands, some guidelines suggest measuring to the middle of the ring.
- Ring Sizers (Gauges): Wheatsheaf ring sizers are sets of individual metal rings in various whole and half sizes (A to Z, and sometimes beyond up to +6). These are used to
physically try on a finger to determine the correct size for comfort and secure fit over the knuckle. High-quality Wheatsheaf sizers are typically made of metal (often with slightly rounded edges for
comfort) to maintain their shape and accuracy over time, unlike plastic alternatives.
- Guarantee of Accuracy: A key characteristic of genuine Wheatsheaf tools is their guaranteed accuracy. This reliability is crucial for jewellers to ensure consistent and correct
sizing for their customers. Replicas of Wheatsheaf tools may not offer the same level of accuracy.
- International Standards: Recognizing the global market, Wheatsheaf expanded its range in 1992 to include ISO, USA, and European sizing standards alongside the traditional UK
system. This allows jewellers to cater to international customers with confidence.
Wheatsheaf Useful tips!
- Use Genuine, Calibrated Tools:
- Wheatsheaf Authenticity: Always use genuine Wheatsheaf ring sticks and sizers to ensure adherence to the standard and the promised accuracy. Look for the official logo or
markings.
- Regular Calibration: Even high-quality tools can experience wear or slight damage over time. Periodic checks against a master set of known accurate sizes could be recommended to
maintain calibration.
- Proper Handling: Avoid dropping or mishandling ring sticks and sizers to prevent bending or damage that could affect their accuracy.
- Consider the Ring Band Width:
- Narrow Bands: For rings with narrow bands (around 2-4mm), the standard Wheatsheaf sizers (typically around 2mm wide) provide a good indication. The ring on the stick should
generally align with the centre of the marked line.
- Wider Bands: Wider bands (5mm or more) can feel tighter than narrower ones of the same nominal size. New guidelines might emphasise trying on wider gauge sizers or recommending
going up half a size for significantly wide bands. Some jewellers measure wider rings to the leading edge of the line on the stick or even to the middle of the band on the stick.
- Consistent Measurement: Establish a consistent method for measuring rings of different widths (e.g., leading edge for all, or adjusting based on width) within a workshop to avoid
inconsistencies.
- Account for Finger Variations:
- Time of Day and Temperature: Fingers swell and shrink due to temperature, hydration levels, and time of day. Guidelines likely reinforce measuring fingers at room temperature and
ideally at the end of the day when they are generally at their largest. Taking multiple measurements at different times might be advised.
- Knuckle Size: The ring must fit over the knuckle. If the knuckle is significantly larger than the base of the finger, the guidelines might suggest choosing a size that fits
comfortably over the knuckle and then considering sizing beads or internal adjusters if the ring spins once on.
- Dominant Hand: The fingers on the dominant hand are often slightly larger. If measuring for a ring that will be worn on the non-dominant hand, this difference should be
considered.
- Individual Comfort: Ultimately, the wearer's comfort is paramount. Guidelines should emphasize that the sizer should feel snug but comfortable, able to slide over the knuckle
with slight resistance and not spin easily on the finger.
- Provide Clear Guidance to Customers:
- Professional Sizing: Encourage customers to be professionally sized by a jeweller using genuine Wheatsheaf sizers.
- Home Sizing Cautions: If providing guidance for home sizing (e.g., using printable charts or string), emphasize the potential for inaccuracy and the importance of careful
measurement.
- Width Consideration: Inform customers that the width of the ring they choose might affect the perceived fit.
- Resizing Policies: Clearly communicate resizing policies in case the initial sizing is incorrect.
- Record and Track Sizing Information:
- Maintain accurate records of customer ring sizes to ensure consistency for future purchases.
- Note any specific considerations (e.g., wide band, large knuckle) in the sizing notes.
Benefits of Accurate Ring Sizing:
- Comfort: A correctly sized ring will be comfortable to wear daily without being too tight or too loose.
- Security: A snug fit prevents the ring from slipping off and getting lost, especially important for valuable or sentimental pieces.
- Customer Satisfaction: Accurate sizing leads to happy customers and reduces the need for resizing, saving time and cost for both the jeweller and the client.
- Professionalism: Demonstrating expertise in accurate sizing enhances the jeweller's reputation and builds trust with customers.
- Preservation of the Ring: A properly fitted ring is less likely to be damaged due to being too tight (stress on the metal or settings) or too loose (knocks and bumps).
- Avoiding Resizing Issues: Some ring designs (e.g., eternity bands, tension settings) are difficult or impossible to resize significantly. Accurate initial sizing avoids these
complications.